I managed to push this one over the finish line, but it posed a challenge. Here's why:
I had pulled too loose a weave of muslin for the embroidery and when the handwork was done, i did not want to machine quilt through it. I stippled around the field of embroidery and in one good size space under the tree limb, but I was worried about Possible sagging and bulging of the embroidered area.
There were two ways to fix this.
1. Save some of the hand embroidery for after the piece is quilted and embroider through all the layers. The french knots could have been done this way, or some of the interior lines on the pumpkins. I was already too far down the road for this fix.
2, Take some invisible tacking stitches alongside the hand embroidered back stitches. I used cream colored bottomline thread for this, and it will not be noticed unless you are a commandant of the dreaded quilt police and are looking at it closely in good light.
I think that next time I do some embroidery that turns into a quilt, I will go with method 1. Also, I bought a couple of yards of a good firm kona creamy white.
Also, black binding with black thread on a black background is hard on the eyes! Speaking of binding, I did this binding with straight grain strips after testing the grain for a bit of give. It turned out fine, and I will do this on small projects from now on, as I hate to make those long diagonal cuts into yardage.
Live and learn!
Do you always use bias binding or do you use straight grain?
I had pulled too loose a weave of muslin for the embroidery and when the handwork was done, i did not want to machine quilt through it. I stippled around the field of embroidery and in one good size space under the tree limb, but I was worried about Possible sagging and bulging of the embroidered area.
There were two ways to fix this.
1. Save some of the hand embroidery for after the piece is quilted and embroider through all the layers. The french knots could have been done this way, or some of the interior lines on the pumpkins. I was already too far down the road for this fix.
2, Take some invisible tacking stitches alongside the hand embroidered back stitches. I used cream colored bottomline thread for this, and it will not be noticed unless you are a commandant of the dreaded quilt police and are looking at it closely in good light.
I think that next time I do some embroidery that turns into a quilt, I will go with method 1. Also, I bought a couple of yards of a good firm kona creamy white.
Also, black binding with black thread on a black background is hard on the eyes! Speaking of binding, I did this binding with straight grain strips after testing the grain for a bit of give. It turned out fine, and I will do this on small projects from now on, as I hate to make those long diagonal cuts into yardage.
Live and learn!
Do you always use bias binding or do you use straight grain?
It turned out really nice! I hear you about the black binding and thread on old eyeballs. After doing that once, I said never again, at least by hand. It's not as bad using the machine.
ReplyDeleteI do straight grain binding (well, cross grain, but not bias) almost exclusively unless there is a curve or inside corner to be bound. There's just enough stretch in the cross grain for me.